Collecting water at the
well is a right, it is also a right of passage for women many places around the
world. From a young age girls, in Malawi, are taught how to clean buckets, pump
the water, and carry it on their head.
Before the Peace Corps I thought this act alone was a human rights
violation. And it can be if access
to clean water is denied or if the journey to the well is a journey that puts
women at physical danger or takes girls out of school. Here in Malawi there are many good
water sources and many dangerously contaminated sources, furthermore a
community acquiring a well can be a very political issue.
The collection of water
itself is a regular daily chore and it has been happening for a long time. I have come to see it is a social
activity for the ladies…gal pals plan to collect together and then sit and chat
around the well, much like office chats around the water cooler in corporate
America or over coffee at giant chain (or quaint independent/hipster) coffee
shop. It can be a game for little
girls “playing house” to practice with a small cup of water or a small
jar. Personally, I like to
consider it a workout and fill two buckets to build my arm strength. This is partly because the first week
in the village I attempted to carry it on my head and it spilled
everywhere. I could hear the
judgment in the laughter of the women and in their “pepani” (“sorry” in the
local vernacular). Recently I have
grown in courage and have begun carrying it on my head, until…
The cleaning of the
bucket, the pumping of the water and the execution of balancing the bucket on
my head were all going according to plan.
I could tell my confidence was building as well as the strength of my
head, shoulders, and neck. I took
a few steps and heard some cracking. Followed by a few drops of water, which is not too unusual,
as water usually pours over the top.
And then more cracking and more water. Before I could do anything to change my fate, the bucket had
cracked in a spiral formation and all of the cold water in the bucket washed
over me. The bucket was no longer
on my head, my head was in the bucket.
All the women around the well laughed. This time not at me but with me. This time every “pepani” was genuine and without judgment
but with commonality, this time I was relating to them because it has happened
to many of them. Before I had time
to change my wet clothes a woman had already brought me a bucket of water.
This scenario was humiliating and humbling but I have a new kinship with the women at the well.
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